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What to fit
There are two points to consider with regard to lighting -
aesthetics and functionality. Both will have an impact on cost,
aesthetics to the greater extent. What are the options?
Solar. In recent years a range of solar lighting has
become available. It doesn’t need power running to it or replacement
batteries. Although individual units are cheap (typically from ?5), you
will need a number of solar lights to show you where a path is and they
won’t illuminate it brightly. Higher priced (around ?60) security and
decorative lights powered from a solar panel via a rechargeable battery
are now available. These provide up to 50 short illuminations per night
after full charge in strong sunlight. Although technology has improved
they offer limited use during overcast British winters.
Low voltage. The ‘low’ part means the lights are fed from
a transformer, typically installed in the house, which converts 240
volts mains power to a safer voltage, usually 12 volts. The great
advantage is that the cabling for these lights does not need to meet the
strict safety conditions applied to mains powered lights (although it
still needs to be protected) whilst a high light output is obtainable.
This is a versatile solution and a good range is available.
Mains powered. Still the usual solution, particularly when
attached to the house. Costs range from around ?8 for a basic manual
light to ?100s for feature lighting. A typical PIR (passive infrared)
unit is priced from ?10.
There are some points to be aware of -
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Most
outdoor lights have a detector which means they switch on only at
night. This could cause a situation where every passing cat, fox or
car switches the light on. Careful sighting and use of the sensitivity
controls alleviates these potential problems.
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Take care
about illuminating the night sky, half the neighbour’s property or
blinding motorists - an increasing problem with the ‘flood’ variety.
Do you really need 300 or even 500 watts of power to light up your
drive? Probably not, so select a lower wattage model (e.g. 150W) and
remember it’s you paying for the light pollution.
About
cabling
Assuming basic lighting is chosen, the prime cost is usually
getting the power to the lights, i.e. running a cable from a suitable
point. Lights should be fed from lighting circuits, but a fused spur
from a 13A mains point can also be employed. Always fit a switch,
otherwise you can’t change the bulb safely and remember that automatic
lights are often reset via a timed switch on/off sequence.
Cabling looks tidiest if it’s fed straight through the wall but a run
can be clipped to the exterior of a building or laid in trunking; 240
volt cables run in the garden must be suitably protected and armoured if
underground.
Finally, do be safe. As with all electrical work the installation
should meet IEE 16th Edition Wiring Regulations (BS7671) standards. If
in doubt, have work checked by a qualified electrician or company. Some
electrical work is now subject to Part P of the Building Regulations and
must be undertaken and certified by a competent person.
Roger
Runswick is a director of
50plus Handyman and a member of the Institute
of Electrical Engineers. He can be contacted at
roger.runswick@the50plus.co.uk
Previous articles in this series:
Can I still change my light
switch?
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