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March 2005
Q: Gilbert asks:
I've been using different fertilizers for 1 year now in my garden,
Ihave almost 100 pots of 30 different varieties of Euphorbia Millii.
I
am using the Blossom Booster, Yield Booster and Complete either
14-14-14 or 19-19-19 or 20-20-20.
One thing I notice in every instruction, it says that feeding should
be given 14 days or two weeks after transplanting until bud setting.
I was wondering, is it unpleasant for the plant or for the flower to
continue feeding in its blooming period? What should be the proper
feeding for the said plant? Would you recommend a certain brand of
fertilizer?
A: These are all new brand names
to me as I am in the UK where we use different products..
However I looked on a website and found those you refer to and they
seem to
have the same basic ingredients as our fertilisers.
This website seemed interesting and might have some additional
information
for you.
http://www.wanapluk.com/tropical-plants-article/crown-of-thorns-comeback.html
I noticed this quote in particular:-
"Euphorbia milii prefers moderate fertility levels in production.
One of the
few ways to keep this plant from flowering is to overfertilize.
Either a
solution containing 150-275 ppm fertilizer or a medium rate of
slow-release
fertilizer are adequate at planting. Try using a high-phosphorus
fertilizer
when plants have reached saleable size."
Q: From Debbie:
I had two to three poinsettias which I would like to plant in the
ground. Any knowledge on how and where to plant these and how to
care for them? I live in Kenner, Louisiana down in the south, just a
couple of throws from New Orleans. can't wait to hear your
suggestions on planting the poinsettias and what type of care they
need.
A: I am not sure what your
climate is like, so I looked up some websites and came across this
one:-
http://www.geocities.com/homegardener/poinsettia.htm
which might help you come to a decision..
I put my Christmas poinsettias in the garden but they only survive
for the summer months and the new bracts don`t turn red: it takes
specialist conditions for them to grow as they do.
Q: Susanna has a yukka query:
Recently I heard that Yukka plants are quite unique to other plants
in that they consume everything from the air around them as opposed
to chucking out oxygen and are therefore unsuitable to have in an
area that isn't well ventilated? Is this true and should our yukka
be moved from our warehouse apartment - which isn't very ventilated.
Can it be dangerous?
A: I haven`t heard about that
before and have spent some time online and looking through my
gardening books without finding any information to that effect....
I also note that businesses who contract for ornamental plant hire
to companies count yukkas as their most popular plant, so I assume
they are pretty safe..
If I do manage to find any information I will certainly let you
know, but meanwhile I shouldn`t panic and throw out the plant. If
this were a well known fact, yukkas would be most unpopular and if
anything they are gaining in popularity as structural plants..
Perhaps one of our readers can confirm that yukkas are safe as
houseplants....
Q: Debi sent me a photo of her Yukka with
her query: My yukka is over 7’ tall and was wonderfully
healthy, but my cat used the pot as a litter tray whilst we were
away for a week and although I thorough washed the top of the soil ¾
of it has gone crisp and brown and dropped down. But the top is
still really green and healthy and I don’t know what to do with it.
Will it live outdoors if I put it outside or actually planted it in
the garden as it is massive (see attached picture).
A: It is indeed a beautiful
plant... It is an indoor plant that will only survive outdoors in
the summer months, because frost will kill it..
I suggest you repot the plant now, using a good quality potting
compost, at the same time thoroughly washing off any of the old
compost and putting it in a larger pot....
They are tough plants and it should survive.. But if it still seems
stressed, you can remove some of its branches..
Q: Marilyn wants to move a small tree:
We have a magnolia tree about 4 feet high in the centre of our
garden, and would like to move to the edge border. When would be the
best time ie month to move and could you advise procedure.
A: It should be moved before seasonal growth
starts, whether it is a deciduous or evergreen magnolia. Follow the
instructions below and it should be fine...
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First water it thoroughly
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Partly dig up the magnolia, to get an idea of the rootball size.
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Next, dig the new hole, at the same time mixing in some fresh
compost and slow release fertilser granules.
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Then finish digging up your magnolia, ensuring you get as much of
the root as you can, and transfer it to its new home.
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Stake it for one season to ensure strong winds don`t blow it over.
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Water frequently for the first year until it settles in its new home
Q:
Alan`s yukka seems to be dying: I have moved
house and my previously very healthy indoor Yukka tree seems to be
dying off. This house does not have as much light as my previous
house and so I’m worried that the Yukka will die. I have moved it
right into a window space which gets light until about lunchtime.
Once previously I moved my Yukka into the kitchen and it started
dying off nearly straight away – I guessed this was because it
didn’t have as much light any more so I moved it back to the living
room which had loads of light and the yukka has grows very well over
the last couple of years. What can I do for it now?
A: Your yukka certainly lets you know when it
isn`t happy, doesn`t it?
How about getting one of those natural daylight full spectrum bulbs?
It will make you feel better too in the winter months.. I`m sorry
but I don`t have any other remedies for a plant that needs plenty of
light...
We once lived in a very dark, old house and I had to replace the
bigger plants once they had died. Smaller ones are OK because they
will live in the window ledges...
Q:
John asks: When is the best time to trim a hedge that divides a
garden next door. I do not know what the name of it is but it has
strong leaves.
A: Hedges are normally trimmed twice a year, late
spring or early summer and autumn..
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queries:
Please
e-mail me with your garden problems, comments,
or ideas for this section of laterlife.
Click here for previous
editions of Gardener`s
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