Exfoliation
Helen Franks writes about scrubs and peels and
facial masques
 The skin naturally sheds cells from its surface. This occurs all over the body, and you don’t even
have to think about it as it happens all the time. The
life of keratinocytes, the skin cells we’re talking about, is between 50-70 days.
Certain beauty products
accelerate the process, leaving the underlying skin looking smoother and fresher. Regular
skin exfoliation over time is thought to increase the skin's capacity to absorb moisture,
reduce fine lines and diminish acne.
Life cycle of skin cells
Keratinocytes are born
in the interface between the epidermis and the deeper lying dermis. They slowly move towards the surface of the skin, while a
new generation develops underneath. As they come to the surface, they gradually become
flatter, and finally die and dry out.
In mature skin, cell
turnover becomes slower. Moisturising functions tend to be impaired. The skin becomes
drier and less transparent, so exfoliants help restore appearance.
What
kinds of exfoliants are available?
For the face, there are
mildly abrasive creams containing granules, masques which are gel or cream-based and vary
in intensity, and also exfoliating soap. These products contain soft or hard particles,
which help remove surface debris from the skin and refine the skin’s texture.
There are also mildly
abrasive manual products such as a silk mitt , loofah or a soft flannel designed for the
body. Some scrubs and buffing creams are also
available for the body.
Is
it safe to use an exfoliant on mature or sensitive skin?
Skin exfoliation can cause redness and irritation.
If you know your skin is slightly sensitive, choose a mild exfoliant and use it sparingly. Some mature skins are too dry and sensitive for active
exfoliants. If this is the case, choose a
range of products designed for sensitive skins, see below. A combination of moisturisers
and oils help maintain the skin’s barrier properties.
Products for the body, mentioned above, may also be
too much of a challenge to thinner, older skin.
Anti-ageing
creams: the chemical exfoliants
 Anti-ageing creams can contain a wide variety of active ingredients which,
to a greater or lesser extent, stimulate exfoliation of the skin. Fruit acids (AHAs) and
retinol in various forms are widely used. Both stimulate cell renewal, albeit in different
ways. Though chemical exfoliants are considered the most effective, they can cause
redness, especially on thinner, older skin. Over-the-counter and mail-order versions tend
to be less powerful than those used in a beauty salon, and therefore are less likely to
cause redness. However, they
should always be used under sunscreen during the day.
AHAs
or Alpha Hydroxy Acids, are derived from fruit acids and are water-soluble. Retinol (or tretinoin) derive from Vitamin A. Retinol works at greater depth than AHAs, and may even
help with collagen production, the support structure for skin that is eroded by sun damage and slows down in later life.
Exfoliant and related products from Nutrimetics
Some of the
following are intended to be used daily, others once or twice a week. Follow instructions on the pack.
Gentre
scrub:
Nutrimetics Honey
and Almond Scrub combines gentle
exfoliation with a cooling effect afterwards. The natural almond meal works as a gentle skin polisher for the removal of dry, dead skin
cells.
Facial Masque:
Mineral Masque from the Classic Range is a concentrated deep
cleansing and tightening clay, which is designed to draw out excess oils and impurities.
It contains soybean oil and apricot extract to help soften, smooth and protect the skin.
Anti-ageing
creams:
Nutrimetics’ Specific Care range includes Anti-Wrinkle
Retinol Serum, which contains pure
retinol. It adds a healthier glow to complexion. Nutrimetics
claim that results are visible after seven days’ use.
Restore Anti-ageing Range
features
a patented retinol depot that slowly releases the retinol where the skin needs it and
reduces risk of irritation. The product works with the skin’s own enzymes, which turn
the retinol esters into the active retinol. Restore
Renewing Night Crème and Restore SPF Day Lotion combine to create best
results and daytime sunscreen protection.
For
sensitive skin:
Nutrimetics Sensitive Range has been developed
specifically for women with sensitive skin. The products are fragrance-free, and contain
botanical extracts for soothing, calming, anti-inflammatory properties.
For
the body:
Body Polish from the Aqua
Spa Range. A combination of Irish
moss flakes and silica beads enable this body exfoliator to gently remove dead skin cells.
All Nutrimetics products are very economically
priced as the company sells direct to customers, with no advertising or middle man to
inflate prices. There are nearly always special
offers available too.
For further details, to obtain a brochure, or if you would like to
book a workshop, contact Betty Manning on 020 8445 3715 or bettyem@lineone.net, or Jane Rieman on 01737 248408
or email janerieman@hotmail.com quoting
laterlife.com.
And now for
something quite quite different…
Laterlife has been
introduced to LipoShape and we thought we’d share the concept with you. Think Big Knickers with a vengeance, and you’re
there. LipoShape is/are ‘innovative pants
designed to remodel and support the hip, bottom and thigh’. Makers claim that this wonder garment will ‘reduce
thigh circumference, lift the buttocks, reshape hips, flatten the stomach and reduce
cellulite’. Just the thing for older people
with wobbly bits.
 Only snag: you have to wear the thing for 12 hours a day for
at least eight weeks, ‘dependent upon severity of case’ as the blurb puts it. LipoShape costs £49.99 in sizes small, medium and
large, in white, black and natural, and we have no idea whether or not it works. If you can’t resist underwear that makes you
look like a baseball player, you can buy it mail order from 0870 0113224.
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A vast industry is out there to help with all and every beauty concern. In
this column every month laterlife.com will report on ideas and products, old and
new. The practical results of everything from creamy cleansers to mud baths will be
brought to you. All with the focus on maturity of course.
