Looking Good in Later Life 29
February 2004

Exfoliation  

Helen Franks writes about scrubs and peels and facial masques  

The skin naturally sheds cells from its surface. This occurs all over the body, and you don’t even have to think about it as it happens all the time. The life of keratinocytes, the skin cells we’re talking about, is between 50-70 days. 

Certain beauty products accelerate the process, leaving the underlying skin looking smoother and fresher. Regular skin exfoliation over time is thought to increase the skin's capacity to absorb moisture, reduce fine lines and diminish acne.  

Life cycle of skin cells

Keratinocytes are born in the interface between the epidermis and the deeper lying dermis. They slowly move towards the surface of the skin, while a new generation develops underneath. As they come to the surface, they gradually become flatter, and finally die and dry out.

In mature skin, cell turnover becomes slower. Moisturising functions tend to be impaired. The skin becomes drier and less transparent, so exfoliants help restore appearance.  

What kinds of exfoliants are available?

For the face, there are mildly abrasive creams containing granules, masques which are gel or cream-based and vary in intensity, and also exfoliating soap. These products contain soft or hard particles, which help remove surface debris from the skin and refine the skin’s texture.

There are also mildly abrasive manual products such as a silk mitt , loofah or a soft flannel designed for the body. Some scrubs and buffing creams are also available for the body.  

Is it safe to use an exfoliant on mature or sensitive skin?

Skin exfoliation can cause redness and irritation. If you know your skin is slightly sensitive, choose a mild exfoliant and use it sparingly. Some mature skins are too dry and sensitive for active exfoliants.  If this is the case, choose a range of products designed for sensitive skins, see below. A combination of moisturisers and oils help maintain the skin’s barrier properties. 

Products for the body, mentioned above, may also be too much of a challenge to thinner, older skin.  

Anti-ageing creams: the chemical exfoliants

Anti-ageing creams can  contain a wide variety of active ingredients which, to a greater or lesser extent, stimulate exfoliation of the skin. Fruit acids (AHAs) and retinol in various forms are widely used. Both stimulate cell renewal, albeit in different ways. Though chemical exfoliants are considered the most effective, they can cause redness, especially on thinner, older skin. Over-the-counter and mail-order versions tend to be less powerful than those used in a beauty salon, and therefore are less likely to cause redness. However, they should always be used under sunscreen during the day.

AHAs or Alpha Hydroxy Acids, are derived from fruit acids and are water-soluble.   Retinol (or tretinoin) derive from Vitamin A. Retinol works at greater depth than AHAs, and may even help with collagen production, the support structure for skin that is eroded  by sun damage and slows down in later life.  

Exfoliant  and related products from Nutrimetics

Some of the following are intended to be used daily, others once or twice a week. Follow instructions on the pack.

Gentre scrub:  

Nutrimetics Honey and Almond Scrub combines gentle exfoliation with a cooling effect afterwards. The natural almond meal works as a gentle skin polisher for the removal of dry, dead skin cells.

Facial Masque:

Mineral Masque from the Classic Range is a concentrated deep cleansing and tightening clay, which is designed to draw out excess oils and impurities. It contains soybean oil and apricot extract to help soften, smooth and protect the skin.  

Anti-ageing creams:

Nutrimetics’ Specific Care range includes Anti-Wrinkle Retinol Serum, which contains pure retinol. It adds a healthier glow to complexion.  Nutrimetics claim that results are visible after seven days’ use. 

Restore  Anti-ageing Range features a patented retinol depot that slowly releases the retinol where the skin needs it and reduces risk of irritation. The product works with the skin’s own enzymes, which turn the retinol esters into the active retinol.  Restore Renewing Night Crème and Restore SPF Day Lotion combine to create best results and daytime sunscreen protection.  

For sensitive skin:

Nutrimetics Sensitive Range has been developed specifically for women with sensitive skin. The products are fragrance-free, and contain botanical extracts for soothing, calming, anti-inflammatory properties.  

For the body:

Body Polish from the Aqua Spa Range. A combination of Irish moss flakes and silica beads enable this body exfoliator to gently remove dead skin cells.  

All Nutrimetics products are very economically priced as the company sells direct to customers, with no advertising or middle man to inflate prices. There are nearly always special offers available too.   

For further details, to obtain a brochure, or if you would like to book a workshop, contact Betty Manning on 020 8445 3715 or bettyem@lineone.net, or Jane Rieman on 01737 248408 or email janerieman@hotmail.com quoting laterlife.com.

And now for something quite quite different… 

Laterlife has been introduced to LipoShape and we thought we’d share the concept with you. Think Big Knickers with a vengeance, and you’re there. LipoShape is/are ‘innovative pants designed to remodel and support the hip, bottom and thigh’. Makers claim that this wonder garment will  ‘reduce thigh circumference, lift the buttocks, reshape hips, flatten the stomach and reduce cellulite’. Just the thing for older people with wobbly bits.

Only snag: you have to wear the thing for 12 hours a day for at least eight weeks, ‘dependent upon severity of case’ as the blurb puts it. LipoShape costs £49.99 in sizes small, medium and large, in white, black and natural, and we have no idea whether or not it works.  If you can’t resist underwear that makes you look like a baseball player, you can buy it mail order from 0870 0113224.

Previous editions of Looking Good in laterlife 

Edition 1 (including a visit to Estee Lauder)

Edition 2 (including a visit to Clarins)

Edition 3 (including a visit to Medestea Internazionale

Edition 4 (including a visit to Martha Hill Skincare)

Edition 5 (including a visit to Harrods)

Edition 6 (including a visit to Belgravia Centre)

Edition 7 (including a visit to Vichy Laboratoire)

Edition 8 (including a visit to Avene Spa)

Edition 9 (including fashion tips)

Edition 10 eyebrows, eyelashes, sun and skin

Edition 11 (including a visit to Lasercare Clinics)

Edition 12 - Lasercare Clinics offer their expertise on common skin conditions

Edition 13 - Ageing skin in the new millennium

Edition 14 - A visit to Helen Sher

Edition 15 -  More from Helen Sher and Lasercare Clinics

Edition 16  A visit to Champneys London Clubs

Edition 17 - Seeking Cosmetic Surgery

Edition 18 -  Does hair dye cause cancer?

Edition 19 - How not to look like mutton dressed as lamb..    

Edition 20 - What cosmetic dentistry can do for you  - Part one

Edition 21 - What cosmetic dentistry can do for you  - Part two

Edition 22 - What’s new at Estee Lauder?

Edition 23 - Lancome -  a perennial favourite

Edition 24- The latest from Clarins

Edition 25 - East meets west with Shiseido  

Edition 26 - Nutrimetics

Edition 27 - Nutrimetics - Special offer

Edition 28 - Nutrimetics workshop

Edition 29 - Exfoliation

laterlife.com occasionally visits one of the great cosmetic houses, up-and-coming beauty collections or other organisations of interest to the more mature visitor.

Edition 1 Estee Lauder

Edition 2 Clarins

Edition 3 Medestea Internazionale

Edition 4 Martha Hill Skincare

Edition 5 Harrods
Edition 6 The Belgravia Centre

Edition 7 Vichy Laboratoire

Edition 8 Avene Spa  

Edition 11 Lasercare Clinics

Edition 14 - Helen Sher

Edition 16  A visit to Champneys London Clubs    

Don't forget to take a look at the rest of the features sections of laterlife.com:

laterlife interest containing a variety of articles of interest for visitors to laterlife.com written by a number of experienced and new journalists.

It includes both one off articles and also regular columns of a more specialist nature such as healthwise  and talkback

Also don't forget to take a look at our regular IT question and answer section called YoucandoIT by IT trainer and author Jackie Sherman.

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