|
This month’s feature -
Sherry
Sherry must be one of the best value wines one can buy.
Sherry only comes from Jerez de la Frontera in South West Spain's Andalucia region.
Predominantly Palomino grapes are grown in chalky soil close to the sea under a blazing
sun. Not ideal growing conditions and a miracle that such a fine and delicate wine is
produced.
The Solera
When the grapes have been crushed and fermented a first
assessment is made of the characteristic of the wine and it is then stored in a group of
vats known as criaderas. The wine from each criadera is used to top up the barrels of the
youngest wine barrels as wine from the oldest barrels is extracted for blending or
bottling and so on down the chain. This is the Solera system and is the foundation for
sherry production and it is this progressive topping up of older barrels from wines of an
early vintage that maintains a sherry's characteristic and consistency.
The types of sherry
There are two main types of sherry. The dry, pale and elegant Fino
and the dark, full bodied but also dry Oloroso. Finos are made from grapes grown on the
chalky soils and older vines whereas Olorosos derive from grapes grown in soil with more
clay content. All other sherries, with the exception of Palo Cortado are derivatives or
blends of these two types. Dry Olorosos are blended with intensely sweet wine from the
Pedro Ximenez grape to produce the sweetened Cream sherries. Oloroso is fortified
with grape spirit - Aguadeinte and these wines usually end up with around 18% alcohol by
volume. As the wine evaporates older Olorosos (Muy Viejos) may end up as high as
24%.
Fino sherry is fermented under a natural yeast known as Flor. The
Flor maintains a blanket over the top of the fermenting wine. Flor is killed by
alcohol levels above 16% and hence Fino is fortified to around 15%. A Fino that looses its
layer of Flor is open to the air and becomes an Amontillado. Where Finos are pale,
Amontillados become amber, though still dry. The British taste for wines determined that
Amontillados should be sweeter and many Amontillados for sale in the UK
are blends of cheaper and sweetened wines. But dry Amontillados can be found and are
normally higher quality. 
Manzanilla is a Fino style sherry made in the town of Sanlucar. As
with Fino it is a pale, dry light wine. It is said that as Manzanilla is made so
close to the coast you can taste the sea. I agree with this. For me Manzanilla has a
hint of salt in its fresh, tangy taste.
Palo Cortado comes between Amontillado and Oloroso. As with
Amontillado it is a sherry that has run out of Flor yeast but Palo Cortado is left to
age.
I think Fino a wonderful aperitif. A few olives, a slice of air
dried ham, or a few cubes of cheese make a wonderful accompaniment at any time of
year. Or have some Fino or dry Amontillado with your soup course.
Buying Sherry
Sherry is great value. Fortunately a number of retailers now
stock real Amontillados and Dry Olorosos and even Palo Cortado can be found. Waitrose have
led the way for the supermarkets and have a good range of sherries.
In researching this article I visited a few High Street Off
licenses and was disappointed by their range. They seemed to be stuck in the 1970s and
many offered cheap, sweetened blends.
Some names to look for:
Gonzalez Byass probably one of the best known brands and their Tio
Pepe is an excellent Fino as is the cheaper but still very good Elegante. (Oddbins £8.49
and £6.59- Waitrose £8.29 and £6.15) Waitrose have Tio Pepe in half bottles for £4.25.
Garvey's San Patricio is another excellent Fino. Sainsbury's have a Gonzalez Byass
Oloroso Dulce Muy Viejo at £10.79 for a half bottle and Waitrose have a Williams and
Humbert 15yo Oloroso for £9.99 for a half bottle. Wonderful with Dundee cake. Marks &
Spencer have a good value Manzanilla at £4.99 and Waitrose stock the excellent Hidalgo La
Gitana Manzanilla at £6.15. The Waitrose Solera range includes Fino, Amontillado and
Oloroso (all dry as they should be) at £5.99.
|
December 2003
Personalised
Champagne and Wines for celebrating laterlife events
