Travel & Holidays in later life
The Aube region has been making a special pitch for UK visitors, who now represent 50% of non-French tourists. Last year, 100,000 Brits arrived - either on short breaks, or as a stopover en route to the Med.
The River Aube itself is a tributary of the Seine, running roughly parallel with a large wooded area called Forest of Orient sandwiched in between. What else to do in Troyes besides strolling around, going shopping and drinking champagne? On the culture-vulture front there's a Museum of Modern Art, housed in the former bishop's palace alongside the cathedral. Meanwhile the 136-mile Aube Champagne Route awaits. Very tempting brochures are available from the tourist office, including one sub-titled "The Aube and its hidden treasures." Another called "Escapades 2007" offers choice of two-night half-board packages priced around £90 per person in a double room, to include a gastronomic and a regional dinner. Several of the hotels also include a free bottle of champagne, a visit to a cellar and wine tasting. The majority of wine growers are "harvest-producers" who harvest, make and sell their own champagne. Their ancient villages are charming, with narrow through roads which are clogged with grape-laden tractors during the September harvest. Cellar tours and tastings are mostly by appointment, usually free or with a modest charge of around £2. Typical was the 18th-century Chateau of Bligny which included a "clos" - a walled vineyard - within the castle park. On a larger scale was a visit to the Drappier company which makes 12 types of champagne, exporting a million bottles a year. The vaulted cellars were built by the Cistercian monks of neighbouring Clairvaux Abbey, founded by St. Bernard in 1115. The village of Essoyes is another worthwhile stop. The Impressionist painter Renoir married his favourite nude model who was born here. The artist liked the village and its countryside so much that he bought a house as a summer retreat. Here was the atmosphere, scenery, colours and light that inspired his best work. He also enjoyed the company of the local wine-growers. His garden studio is open, entry 2 euros. Renoir and his wife are buried in the local cemetery, and his great-granddaughter still lives in the family house. A leaflet maps four waymarked circuits which follow in Renoir's footsteps. You can see nature through the artist's eyes, and spot some of his painting locations. The routes vary from 3 to 14 kilometres. Colourful hotels and restaurants are located in the Forest of Orient which covers 70,000 acres and includes three man-made lakes designed to regulate the flow of the River Seine. One lake is kept for wildlife and bird-watchers. Another is dedicated to sailing and windsurfing, while the third features motorised water sports which are forbidden on the other two. Throughout this forested area there is more half-timbering, including spectacular churches.
Where else to go in France ANNECY - French coach touring by TGV train BRITTANY COAST - St Malo and the Emerald Coast BURGUNDY - Go cruising by luxury barge LOIRE VALLEY - The Garden of France MENTON - where lemon trees bloom year-round NICE - exploring the Riviera PARIS - Open season for loving PARIS - See it dressed up for Christmas "Books to read - click on cover pictures" or click on the links below Michelin Green Guide: Alsace Lorraine Champagne - In its classic pocket format, this is a prime choice for touring the region, and understanding its history. AA Road Map Champagne-Ardennes - Covers the region in a single sheet map. Destination Champagne - The Individual Traveller's Guide to Champagne, the Region and Its Wines. by Philippe Boucheron Champagne for Dummies by Ed McCarthy - a good-humoured guide to the product in all its authentic variations, with a global assessment of other sparkling wines.
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